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I was delighted to discover that the south Indian seasoning podi – a rough grind of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a accompaniment for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s personally dried peppers, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less adventurous with chilli, so here I suggest red pepper flakes instead. It’s an exceptionally great marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Citrus-Mint Dressing

You will need six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if wooden, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves two people

400g firm potatoes, sliced into 1.5-inch chunks
Two hundred twenty-five grams paneer, cut into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 cloves of garlic, prepared and minced
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml flavorless oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then halved crossways

For the dressing
Zest and juice from one lime, finely grated
10g fresh mint leaves, minced
Half a teaspoon flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Cook the potatoes for about 10 minutes, then remove the water and allow to air dry for a minute. Meanwhile, put the paneer cubes in a container with heated water for 5 minutes, then strain and blot dry.

Tip the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then lightly combine with the ingredients to coat. Arrange the components on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then place on a tray and keep ready – optionally, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Whisk all the dressing components in a mixing bowl. Turn on the grill to its highest setting, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is browned and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the fierceness of your grill, so watch carefully, especially when cooking the first side.)

Serve the skewers hot, scattered with a little more salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.